Sunday, April 22, 2007

The Food Families of France (March 2007)

The FoodFamilies of France as observed in Paris and Caen in March 2007

The Bagette Family, whose major constituents are big and small & long and short breads of all sorts, is probably the First FoodGroup of France. Its stars are croissant, pain au chocolat and almond croissant... Cousin to Bagette is The Crepe Family, with siblings Crepe and Gallette. Unlike their cousin Croissant, they are NOT served at breakfast (petite dejuner, if you will). They live side-by-side on menus in creparie (Houses of Crepes) which, unlike American McDonalds, which are strategically located within a few blocks of one another in large cities, there are streets in Montparnasse with 20 Maisons des Crepes on a block. You can get anything you want in a crepe, as long as it's sweet: my fave is simple: crepe, sugar and fresh lemon juice. You can get anything you want in a gallette, as long as it's savory. No, I didn't know that a gallette was a buckwheat pancake.

My personal favorite, The Pomme (apple) Family, is most useful, as it contains Calvados -- a spirit-lifting apple liquer -- which is either part of or the totality of the Tru Normande, the shot of Calvados served mid-meal in Normandy to create the "Norman Hole" in your stomach so that you can finish your meal. How civilized. A more festive and flexible Tru Normande can also be served in a shot glass: a scoop of apple sorbet topped with Calvados. There is Pomme in alcoholic apple cider which is the star of Kir Normande (cider with Cassis), which should be everyone's everyday refresher and has bumped the ever-popular Spanish sparkling wines from my house. The Pomme Family is also home to apple strudel, apple tart and tarte tatin, which can complete any meal and will signifcantly raise the stakes for snacks. France is also home to exquisite juices -- go to any grocery and find fabulous "Pomme" or "Pomme and Cerise" (apple and cherry) juices.

At Mark Bittman's recommendation, I found the World Headquarters of France's Falafal Family, L'as du Falafal on Rue des Rosiers in Paris. As always, Bittman is right. Put this on your list of "Foods I must eat in Paris." And after your Falafal, go across the street to Florence Finkelsztajn's Boulangerie for apple tart.


The Fruit and Frite Family is outstanding. There is apparently law prohibiting selling any fruit or veg that isn't perfect. I was in outdoor markets in Paris and in Caen, and in grocery stores in Paris, Caen, Bayeux and Honfleurs. The mushrooms are packed like little jewels; the radishes sit up and salute, and the strawberries and tomatoes were both beautiful and they tasted just like they were supposed to taste.

Clearly the French worship both Jambon and Fromage (ham and cheese). The variety of fresh and cured hams and sausage is overwhelming, and many more expert than I have made their careers on cataloging French cheese. I just ate.

Any vist to Caen requires careful examination of the Poisson and Fruits de Mers Families. I ate Coquilles St. Jacques, lobster, salmon and smoked salmon, and nothing was found wanting except that I wanted to be able to have fish that fresh every day of my life.


French folk take their food seriously and I am grateful for it. And I apologize for misspelling any French words.

Cooking Class Noodles: One roadmap - two recipes

http://susan-cooks.blogspot.com/2007/04/food-families-of-france-march-2007.htmlOne of the signs of spring in my kitchen is "Cooking Class!" with Amy, Erin and Rochelle, three grads of the U of Minnesota Law School. Amy and Erin trekked to St. Paul this weekend and we worked through five recipes that might not go together for a single meal, but each will contribute to both festive occasions and weeknight dinners.


Cooking Class Recipes: Kir Normande, Nigella Lawson's Lemon Lime Creams, Marian Burros' Plum Torte, and two rice noodle stir frys from Cook's Magazine's Complete Book of Pasta and Noodles (Clarkson, 2000).


KIR NORMANDE Kir Normande is a sterling representative of the Pomme (apple) Family, my favorite of the FoodGroups of FranceThe most accessible way to recreate my recent trip to Paris and Normandy, it requires some zesty alcoholic apple cider (right now I prefer French, but I suspect that in a few months, I'll go right back to Woodchuck, my favorite American label) and Cassis. Yes, this is the Norman version of Kir Royale, and it perks up everything. Also try a non-alcoholic version: non-alcoholic cider with a splash of pomegranate.


MARIAN BURROS' PLUM TORTE Why don't you own The Best of DeGustibus (Simon and Schuster, 1988)? Marian Burros wrote about food for the NY Times for years, and many of her columns were collected this book. It is a window on how we shopped and ate and thought about food during the 80s, and it is full of terrific recipes, including the famous Plum Torte, which she reports was the most requested recipe ever published by the Times. And why not? It is perfect: it's simple; it's reliable; it's expandable; it freezes; and it never, ever disappoints -- except, perhaps in the short time that it sits on the table or on the counter before it disappears. It is a cookie dough that wraps itself around stone fruits and transforms them.


If you freeze torts in springform pans, pop off the metal bottoms and triple wrap the torts. A tort from your freezer puts the flavors of summer on your table in the middle of the winter. Double the batter ingredients to fill a 9x13" pan.
  1. Cream 1 cup sugar and 1/2 cup unsalted butter. Mix (stir well or sift) 1 cup flour, 1 tsp baking power and a pinch of salt. Add to the sugar and butter. Add two large eggs to the batter. Spread it into a 9" springform pan or other round or square pan.
  2. Top with 24 halves of pitted Italian or other plums or stone fruits. Sprinkle with cinnamon, sugar and lemon juice. (I have often forgotten to do this and no one noticed.)
  3. Bake at 350 for an hour. If baking from frozen, bake for about 30 minutes at 300 degrees.

NIGELLA LAWSON'S LEMON -LIME CREAM (New York Times, April 2, 2003, p. D3) We used it to sauce the torte, which was gilding the lily. Lemon-Lime Cream is outrageously sinful, ridiculously easy and always accessible because lemons and limes, cream, sugar and eggs are ALWAYS in the grocery store.

THIS IS STUPID EASY. In a large bowl or in a blender: mix the zest and juice of 2 lemons and one lime, 1-1/2 cups sugar, 6 large eggs,1-1/4 cups heavy cream. Cover and refrigerate for between 2 to 48 hours. Bake at 300 degrees in six one-cup ramekins placed on top of a dish towel set in roasting pan. Pour hot water half way up the sides of the ramekins. Check them at 45 minutes: they should be just set with the centers slightly wobbly. Remove from the water and allow to cool. [Tongs are a great tool for this.] Serve at room temperature or cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.


STIR FRIED RICE NOODLES two ways: One roadmap and two recipes from Cook’s Magazine Complete Book of Pasta and Noodles
 

The editors of Cook's Illustrated focus so closely on technique that even novice cooks can move through their recipes fearlessly. Although I own most of their books, it's this one that I turn to again and again because they tell me how to do it -- whatever it is. Thanks, Cook's.


It took about two minutes of careful parsing to realize that except for a few ingredients, these recipes were identical. After some cheerful chopping (with Kir Normande as inspiration), with two of us at the stove and one navigator/timer we were able to get both of these dishes to the table in under ten minutes. You could probably stir fry these on a giant wok on a high-heat outdoor gas grill.


The instructions in both recipes are identical in numbers 1 and 2 -- boil noodles and heat the oil in the pan. In number 3, you are guided to add the particular ingredients for for stir frying; and in number 4 you add the noodles and the sauce ingredients.

Stir-Fried Rice Noodles with Shrimp, Pineapple and Coconut Cream (p. 430)

12 oz thick rice noodles
salt
¼ cup peanut oil
8 oz shrimp, peeled and coarsely chopped
4 medium garlic cloves, minced
1 T minced fresh ginger
1 medium jalapeno or small fresh hot chili
3 T fish sauce
1 T sugar
½ c light coconut milk
1-1/2 c fresh diced pineapple

  1. Boil 4 quarts of water; add noodles and 1 T salt. Cook until noodles are tender but not mushy (4-5 minutes). Drain and toss with 2 T oil in a large bowl.
  2. Heat a 12-14” nonstick skillet over high heat for 3-4 minutes. Add remaining 2 T of oil and swirl until it coats the bottom of the pan. Heat until it starts to shimmer and smoke.
  3. Add the shrimp and cook, stirring until bright pink (1 min). Add the garlic, ginger and chili and cook, stirring until fragrant (30 seconds).
  4. Add the fish sauce, sugar, coconut milk and pineapple. Stir to combine (30 seconds). Add the noodles and cook, pulling them apart with spring-loaded tongs or 3 forks, tossing to coat with sauce. Add salt if necessary.


Stir fried rice noodles w/ coconut curry sauce (p. 431)

12 oz thick rice noodles
salt
¼ c peanut oil
1 medium red bell pepper, stemmed, seeded, diced small
½ # sugar snap peas, stringed (we used green beans)
4 c shredded Napa cabbage
4 medium cloves of garlic, minced
1 T minced fresh ginger
2 T soy sauce
1 T fish sauce
1 T sugar
½ c light coconut milk
2 T curry powder (we used Penzey's Sweet Curry; I would mix 1T Sweet and 1T Hot)

  1. Boil 4 quarts of water; add noodles and 1 T salt. Cook until noodles are tender but not mushy (4-5 minutes). Drain and toss with 2 T oil in a large bowl.
  2. Heat a 12-14” nonstick skillet over high heat for 3-4 minutes. Add remaining 2 T of oil and swirl until it coats the bottom of the pan. Heat until it starts to shimmer and smoke.
    Add bell pepper and stir fry until slightly softened (30 seconds). Add the peas or beans and stir fry until tender (1 minute for peas, 2 minutes for beans). Add the cabbage and stir fry until wilted (1-1/2 minutes). Add the garlic and ginger and cook, stirring until fragrant (30 seconds).
    Add the fish sauce, sugar, coconut milk and curry powder. Stir to combine (30 seconds). Add the noodles and cook, pulling them apart with spring-loaded tongs or 3 forks, tossing to coat with sauce. Add salt if necessary.